Once in Lensk we
followed Alexy and Evgenia to their home in Almazny. 225 km over a clay with
gravel dirt road. Although it rained, Alexy floored it. No one was
overtaking us at 80 to 90 km/h. Two Land Cruisers hammering down the
road. I needed the extra hp (no turbo in the 105) to follow. Since
Alexy had the lead and I was the second car, we hosed down the 5 mm
of clay from the my coachwork at Alexy's home.
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Evgenia and Alexy with the kids. |
We slept one night on
the couch and visited next morning the open diamond/brilliant mine of
Mirny. The mine is 525 m deep and just an open hole in the ground.
The mine in exploitation is a staggering 754 m deep !
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Visitors platform: an undercarriage of an excavator.
Check out the size of the caterpillar track! |
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The little hole of 525 m deep.
Mirny on the rim. |
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Mirny shopping street lined with birch.
Nice colors. |
In the afternoon we
left and headed for Yakutsk. About 1100 km over dirt roads. We were
officially entering bear and wolf country. On the barge I paid
little attention to the stories from the truckers, telling me to stay
in the car during the night. Bears knocking off a mans head with one
blow ... until Alexy and Evgenia asked us to stay in the car at
night. 10 – 20 km upon leaving Almazny, we saw between the
trees a third warning : a fully dressed mannequin … without
head. In the middle of the night, when nature called, we did it not
gaze at the stars.
|
Daily progress:
Lensk on the Lena River (A), Mirny & Almazny (B),
Camping along the road (C & D), Yakoutsk (E).
Two floating bridges and five (toll) ferries. |
|
Result of a wildfire: black trees on white sand. |
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Autumn colors. |
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Winter preps: closing the gaps between the logs with clay. |
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Village street. |
Yakutsk, the coldest city on earth. Due to the permafrost all buildings stand on (concealed) stilts. Thriving on gold and diamonds, the vibrant city has a higher
standard and life style. Very friendly people. Most of the people
have very Asian features. We were thanked by the warden of the
Archaeology & Ethnography Museum for our visit. In Belgium they
don't even look at you. Entering the museum, the warden asked us in
Russian: « Americans or Belgians ? » … What ?
Why not Germans or English or French, … Was she tipped off about
Belgians staying in the city ? We were walking from the hotel to
the museum, about 4 km away, so no car with foreign registration in
sight. Weird!
|
Mammoth Museum. |
In the National Art
Museum a young man asked spontaneously if we didn't need explanations
about the paintings and statues.
In a restaurant we were
served by the boss who came to our table only, on her very high heels
with het long black hair slung over one shoulder and in a cafetaria a
young woman, studying English and French, held between costumers
short conversations with us. By the way : very good cake and
coffee in Yakutsk.
|
Horse saddles from the Yakut in the Art Museum. |
A lot of stylish young
people (university city) constantly scrolling and tapping on the
smart phones (very Asian) in the streets, malls or restaurants and a
healty number of petrol heads. In the evening they gathered on the
plaza in front of the CTEPX hotel and got the attention of the girls
by showing off the stereo, revving the engines and leaving with
squealing tires : Yakutia Drift or The Fast And The Furious In
Yakutsk.
|
Shopping mall with restaurants and cafeteria. |
Temperatures are around
5°C in the morning and 10°C at noon, unless the sun is out with a
puffing 22°C.
|
Yakutsk center. |
|
No, no towaritsj Lenin it was
the opposite direction! |
We also met
Bolot
Bochkarev. He must be known by all overlanders wandering about
on the Road of Bones and I contacted him some years ago. His web
site that he keeps up to date, completely for free, is a must for all
tourists and adventurers comming to the region :
www.askyakutia.com. Just
checking via Google where I could find a Toyota dealer to service the
car, I came again across his web site explaining what I expected :
there are no specific mark dealers this side of Siberia (see also 5.2
Lena River Cruise). But an article on this web site showed the
street where a lot of spare part dealers and work shops are located.
We got the car serviced in Ul. Lermontova 37.
Bolot also explained
that wolves are afraid of men and are rarely seen. Bears become
agressive when surprised or with young. So, if you make a lot of
noise when getting out of the car, there will be no problem and ...
snow is normal in the second half of Septembre.
On Saturday 14
Septembre we left Yakutsk for Magadan. About 2200 km on the Road of
Bones ?
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An other one bits the dust. |
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WWII memorial. |
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