5.2 LENA RIVER CRUISE (Eastern Siberia).

We arrived in Ust Kut and went to the Osetrovo River Terminal to check if we could embark with the car for Lensk. The terminal houses now several shops, a bank and the ticket office was closed ... We asked for the « barjga » to Lensk and yes : people indicated us the road to the other side of the river. Several cars and trucks were parked on the gravel river bank, and people were swimming, eating, drinking in anticipation of the barge. Russian pop was shouting out of the car stereo's. Clearly, some were there already for some time and in the « office » they told us that the barge had no schedule and that it could take a week before the barge arrived. We parked/camped next to some others, wondering what to do : drive to Yakutsk (a trip of 7 – 10 days?) or wait for the barge (maybe 7 days and 3 days on the river ?).

"Office" in the back and trucks with supplies, waiting for the barge.

Next morning the people crawled out of their cars and washed in the river. At 10 o'clock spirits were high (yes, also due to the vodka) and some told us that at 19:00 hours the barge would arrive. All were picking up their bottles and tins from the days before, to dispose off in the big garbage bins at the « office ».

Camping on the Lena river bank in expectation of the barjga.

We met Vladimir and his father who bought each a new car in Novosibirsk and were driving these cars home : Lensk. It turned out that about half the cars were new or almost and most were bought in Novovsibirsk, Irkoutsk or even Moskou (an Opel Astra made in Belgium). And the barge did not arrive in the evening, but probably tomorrow morning. Maybe tomorrow evening. So the day after : the news was that the barge would arrive tomorrow evening. And yes, Saturday afternoon a river supplier pushing a barge arrived, unloaded the trucks and cars and moored in the middle of the river... What !

Getting pissed on vodka and catching a huge pike while waiting.

Hooray, at 20:00 hrs (after bunkers?) the river supplier moored to the dirt ramp and started loading the cars. At 24:00 hrs the deck was full and we remained on the river bank with the other disappointed. Next day in the morning, at 08:00 hrs, they would start loading the barge with trucks, BUT the little area at the bow next to the ramp is always for cars. We were hoping again ... in vain.

Christine adopted a boxer, a copy of our dog at home.
We called him Boris II.
After 3 days he understood Flemish (if you held food in front of his nose).

Most of our friends were in Ust Kut for a week before they got on the barge. We arrived on Thursday afternoon, so … And yes, the news was that the next two tandems were maybe for next Tuesday 03/09. Since there is no substitute for experience (didn't I hear this before ?) we were hoping to get on the river on Thursday 5 September, one week after our arrival on the river bank.

Infrastructure: you dump behind the fence, sleep in the car,
provide for your own food : cost 100 €.

So, living in Lensk or Mirny and buying a car takes about two weeks :

• You fly for a couple of hours to Irkoutsk, Novosibirsk or even Moscou (6 hrs flight?).
• You buy a car, new or second hand (the Astra was from 2007).
• You drive 3 days Novosibirsk - Ust Kut to get on the barge (by then the shocks are fuxxed).
• You camp one week on the river bank, team up with some homies and get pissed out of your mind in the blistering sun, every day from morning till evening.
• You get on the barge and 3 days later you are in Lensk, probably still pissed.
• If you live in Mirny, add half a day on the road.

The Russians are notorious for their love for wodka. But they have also a big heart. We were constantly invited to eat and/or drink. We received fresh honey (still with small parts of the honeycomb inside), apples, beer, watermelon, nuts, a book, vodka, food … and all came to have a chat about where we were coming from and were curious about our next intentions.

Ust Kut rail way station.

Cost to camp : 4000 Rb (+/- 100 €) with no infrastructure (you dump behind a fence from a abandoned rail way station, wash in the river and bring your garbage to the bins at the « office »).

Cost for the transport of the car : 5000 Rb/m.

Cost to use the toilets on the ship : 1000 Rb/pers.

Total for us : 31.000 Rb (775 €) but no damage on the car while driving the distance, no consumption of fuel and an experience to tell to the grandchildren (before they are 12, after that they have other priorities).

The next tandem arrived on … Monday and started unloading immediately. Loading was for 08:00 hrs, next day.

River supplier "2071" with barge arrived.

Zit en wacht!
(sit & wait)

The trucks coming from the barge were covered in red clay from bottom to top. Moreover when I told the Russians that we wanted to go to Magadan they started laughing or shook the head in disbelieve. What did we have to expect? I didn't tell a thing to Christine.

Tuesday 3 September - 12:00 o'clock, all cars and trucks were puzzled on the deck and the supplier moved on the port anchor to the middle of the Lena and started maneuvering while the bunkers were delivered by a fuel barge. By 14:00 we were leaving Ust Kut. Soon we were surrounded by the Siberian taiga with some trees species preparing for the winter.

The barge master walked to the car and said :

My name is Andreï, … you name ?
Filiep.

Filiep, you pay?

Ok Andreï.

And to excuse himself for the bad news, he said: "Come".

He walked in front, pushed all the truckers out of the way and Christine and me were following like little ducks.

At the counter he barked an order and the clerk was suddenly all ears.

I handed over the money for the transport (25.000 Rb) and got a receipt.

Walking back to the car I said « Iswenitsje » to the truckers, but they looked in the distance ...

Embarrassing, but another example of the Russian hospitality.

Tree days on the Lena River , from Ust-Kut (A) to Lensk (B).
Lake Baïkal in the south.

Spars villages appeared along the river banks with 3 to 10 wooden houses per village. Probably they never experienced rush hour ... One guy was living in a film setting. He should be punished for that. A lonely house got an electricity line running along the river bank for km's, with no other houses or structures in sight ! We have no sewage system for the houses in our street, because to remote... What ? Remote in Flanders?

Village, lost in the taiga, but with electricity and building materials
on the river bank (for free?).

Film setting.

The Lena is a busy river. I suppose that most of the supplies for Lensk, Mirny and the gem mines are shipped from the west, by the river.

Bucket dredger with accommodation barge. 

We met Alexy and his wife Evgenia on the barge, also on a trip with a Toyota Land Cruiser 105. After comparing our Toy's, he explained that he is an operator of an enormous « Le Tourneau » pay loader in the gem mine of Mirny. Pictures of the machines in the mine showed bulldozer's Cat D9, front shovels Liebherr 93xx, massive dumpers, … Evgenia's occupation is : « Love Alexy », but she is also a nurse and a jurist.

To keep the food as fresh as possible, the container
doors are opened during the "cruise".

On the barge all trucks and cars are on the deck.  There is no second deck or hold.  You live for 3 days in and around your car/truck.  You sleep in the car/truck, you cook the food you bought before embarking the barge and you go to the only available toilet, ... Russian style.  We washed in the car because the showers had a long cue just before closing time and we did not wanted to know how the showers looked like.

Empty tanker on his way back from ....?

  

We got a good spot on the barge.  No other cars obstructed our view and we were only one truck away from the bow.  Others had to get out of the car to see the river.  Even when it rained, we were able to sit and admire the scenery.  Coincidence or hospitality?